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Nobody explains the middle part.

There is plenty written about saving for a house, and plenty written about the day you get the keys. The weeks in between — where the money actually moves, and where first-time buyers get blindsided — mostly go unexplained. That's what this page is.

Money moves four times, and only one of them is at closing.

This is the thing almost nobody tells a first-time buyer, and it's the reason people who saved carefully still get caught short in week two.

At the offer

Earnest money

Days after your offer is accepted, you write a check to a third party to hold in escrow — proof you're serious. It counts toward what you owe at closing, so it isn't an extra cost, but it does leave your account early and it isn't casually refundable.

Know beforeWhich contingencies protect it, and what happens to it if you walk away.

First two weeks

Inspection

You hire the inspector and you pay them directly, usually within days of going under contract. This one is genuinely out of pocket, it does not come back, and it stays spent even if the inspection is what makes you cancel. That is the point of it.

Know beforeThat a cancelled deal still costs you this, and that it's worth it anyway.

Roughly week two

Appraisal

The lender orders it; you pay for it. It protects the lender's position, not your negotiation — though if it comes in under the contract price, that becomes very much your problem, and it's one worth talking through before it happens rather than after.

Know beforeWhat happens to your contract if the appraisal comes in low.

Closing day

Cash to close

The big one, and the number people confuse with the down payment. Cash to close is the down payment plus closing costs, minus your earnest money and any credits negotiated from the seller. It arrives by wire, and if you've read the Loan Estimate you'll be close — the binding number lands on your Closing Disclosure three business days before you sign.

Know beforeThat down payment and cash to close are two different numbers.

Step one

A prequalification and a pre-approval are not the same document.

They get used interchangeably, including by people who should know better. A prequalification is a conversation — you say what you make, someone runs the arithmetic, usually pulls your credit, and a letter comes out. A pre-approval means your income, your assets and your credit were actually reviewed by someone who will stand behind the letter.

In a competitive Knoxville offer, a listing agent can tell which one they're holding. So can a seller. Get the real one before you start looking, not after you've found the house — the week you fall in love with a place is a bad week to discover a problem in your file.

  • Income reviewedPre-approval only
  • Assets documentedPre-approval only
  • Credit pulledBoth, usually
  • Held up by a listing agentPre-approval
  • Time it takesAsk on the first call

The document that matters

Three pages, and you should understand all three.

The Loan Estimate is a standardized federal form, which means every lender's looks the same and any two can be laid side by side honestly. Within three business days of applying, you get one. It is the only document in this process designed specifically to let you comparison-shop, and most first-time buyers skim it.

Read page three first. That's where the form does the comparing for you — what the loan costs you over five years, and the two standardized figures that let you rank competing offers on something other than the headline. Then come back to page two and read the cost sections in order, because that's where lenders differ from one another most.

Bring yours to a call and we'll go through it line by line, including a lender's that isn't ours. If theirs is the better deal, you'll hear that.

What's on each page

No figures here — just where to look on yours:

  • Page 1 — the shape of the loan. The amount, the term, whether anything can increase after closing, what the payment is projected to be, and your estimated cash to close.
  • Page 2, sections A–C — the costs of borrowing. What the lender charges, the services you can't shop for, and the services you can. That last one is real leverage and almost nobody uses it.
  • Page 2, sections E–H — the costs of owning. Taxes and government fees (Tennessee's recording tax lands here), prepaid interest and insurance, and what goes into your escrow account up front.
  • Page 3 — the comparisons. The five-year cost, the APR and the total interest percentage. Standardized on purpose, so two lenders can be ranked fairly.
  • The whole point: a second lender's Loan Estimate can be compared to the first line for line. That is what the form is for.

There's more than one door

First-time buyer doesn't mean one kind of loan.

Most people arrive assuming there's a single first-time-buyer product and they either qualify or they don't. There isn't. There are several programs with different requirements, and which one fits depends on where you're buying, what you do for a living, whether you've served, and what your file actually looks like — not on a label.

Some of these carry income or purchase-price limits, some are tied to specific geographies, and some come with assistance toward what you bring to closing. The right way to find yours is a fifteen-minute conversation, not a checkbox on a website.

  • ConventionalThe common starting point
  • FHAMore flexible credit standards
  • VAVeterans & active duty
  • USDAEligible rural addresses
  • THDA Great ChoiceTennessee's housing agency
  • THDA Homeownership for HeroesService, safety & teaching
  • Down payment assistanceFor eligible buyers

What the whole thing looks like.

Three phases. You'll know which one you're in and what's expected of you next.

  1. Before you look

    A real pre-approval, a payment you've actually run yourself, and a clear number for what you need at closing — not just what you need for the down payment. This is also when credit problems are cheap to fix. Later, they're not.

  2. Under contract

    Inspection, appraisal, and underwriting asking for documents. Send them the day they're asked for; nothing slows a closing like a two-day gap on a one-page request. Don't open a credit card, finance furniture, or change jobs in this window without calling first.

  3. Closing

    You get a Closing Disclosure three business days before signing — compare it to your Loan Estimate and ask about anything that moved. Then you wire the money, sign a stack of paper, and it's your house.

The Second Look

Your first mortgage is the worst one to take on faith.

If someone has already given you a Loan Estimate, send it over. Within 24 hours you'll hear whether we can beat it — and if we can't, you'll hear that too, along with what's actually good about their offer. A first-time buyer shopping two lenders isn't being difficult. It's the point of the form.

A Second Look is not a credit decision or a commitment to lend. You're entitled to shop for the lender that's right for you — we'd just like to be in the running.

Hannah Blevins and Caroline Parker reviewing a file
Reviewed in 24h

Let's talk

Fifteen minutes, no application.

No question is too basic. The ones people are embarrassed to ask are usually the ones that cost the most money.

Still reading rather than ready to talk? The Tennessee mortgage FAQ answers thirty of these in writing, and the calculators will give you a payment without anyone calling you about it.

What to have ready

Nothing, to talk. But these four make the first call do real work:

  • Roughly what you and anyone buying with you earn — and how you're paid: salary, hourly, tips, commission, self-employed.
  • Roughly what you've saved — and whether any of it is a gift from family, which is common and has its own paperwork.
  • Your monthly debts — car, student loans, credit cards, child support. Not the balances; the payments.
  • Anything you're worried about — a collection, a short work history, a late payment. Say it early. It's almost always smaller than you think.